Najboljše
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za
plezanje
v
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prostem:
Vodnik

07/2024

A climber wearing Mammut gear, standing in front of a rocky cliff, drapes orange climbing ropes over his shoulders while looking down.

Da vaša varnost ne bo visela na dobesedni niti, ko plezate po balvanih in stenah, je ključnega pomena, da poznate različne vrste vrvi, ki so na voljo – in kako jih uporabljati. Glede na vašo najljubšo plezalno dejavnost bodo nekatere vrvi bolj primerne za vaše potrebe kot druge. V tem priročniku vam bomo povedali, na kaj morate biti pozorni pri nakupu plezalne vrvi.

Plezalne vrvi so na splošno razdeljene v dve kategoriji: dinamične vrvi in statične vrvi.Dinamične vrvi imajo raztezanje od 4,5-9 %. V primeru padca se lahko podaljšajo za do 32 %, s čimer absorbirajo moč padca in zagotavljajo veliko mehkejši padec v vrv.Statične vrvi pa se komaj raztezajo, kar jih naredi popolno izbiro za spuščanje med reševanjem, transport opreme ali – kot Mammutovahiperstatična dodatna vrv  – za ture po ledenikih. Statičnih vrvi nikoli ne smete uporabljati za varovanje pri vodstvu, ker a) niso zasnovane za to in b) niso bile preizkušene za to.Vedno izberite dinamično vrv za varovanje.

Vrste plezalnih vrvi

Vsaka plezalna vrv je sestavljena iz jedra in ovoja, ki oba ščitita vrv in povečujeta njeno nosilnost. Poleg tega skupnega imenovalca se različne vrste plezalnih vrvi precej razlikujejo glede sestave in lastnosti. Ko iščete plezalno vrv, boste hitro naleteli na zapletene izraze, kot soenojna vrv,polovična vrv alidvojna vrv. Da bi vam pomagali samozavestno krmariti po velikem džungli plezalne terminologije, tukaj je pregled ključnih značilnosti vsake vrste vrvi:

  • Enojne vrvi:Enojne vrvi  so najpogosteje uporabljena vrsta vrvi zaradi svojenosilnosti in vzdržljivosti. Običajno se uporabljajo za plezanje in varovanje pri – uganili ste – enojnem plezanju z vrvjo in so še posebej praktična izbira. Na voljo so v širokem razponu dolžin in različnih premerov, premer8,7 mm do 10,2 mm se na splošno šteje za idealno debelino. Praviloma sodebelejše in težje od polovičnih ali dvojnih vrvi. Enojne vrvi so še posebej odlične za športno plezanje v zaprtih prostorih in na prostem ter so narejene zalinearne poti brez prečnic. Enojne vrvi so najbolje uporabljene v kombinaciji s polavtomatskimi varovalnimi napravami z integrirano zavorno vložkom, kot jeMammut Smart 2.0 . Ker so zelo intuitivne in enostavne za uporabo, so še posebej priljubljena izbira za začetnike in začetnike plezalce. Enojne vrvi lahko prepoznate po oznaki "1" na banderoli.

  • Polovične vrvi:Polovične vrvi  sotanjše od enojnih vrvi inse uporabljajo za vodstvo, kar zahteva dve vrvi. Oseba, ki vodi skupino, je zavarovana z dvema vrvema, tako da sta lahko dve drugi osebi zavarovani z eno vrvjo vsaka. Uporaba polovičnih vrvi zahteva malo več spretnosti in truda v primerjavi z enojnimi vrvmi. Polovične vrvi običajno imajo premer7,5 mm do 9 mm. Tehnično gledano so lažje od enojnih vrvi, vendar ker morate uporabiti dve, je njihova skupna teža dejansko večja. Polovične vrvi so popolne za poti z mnogimi zavoji, sajzmanjšujejo vlečenje vrvi. Druga prednost: Pri večraztežajnem plezanju lahkoizkoristite celotno dolžino vrvi, kar ni mogoče z enojno vrvjo. Hkrati druga vrv služi tudi kot dodatna varnostna funkcija v primeru, da ena od vrvi poči. Polovične vrvi so označene s simbolom"½" na banderoli.

  • Dvojne vrvi:Dvojne vrvi  so najtanjša vrsta plezalne vrvi, merijo7,5 mm do 9 mm v premeru. Tako kot polovične vrvi se uporabljajo za vodstvo, z eno pomembno razliko: obe vrvi morata biti pripeti na isto vmesno varovalno točko. Sama po sebi dvojna vrv ni dovolj močna, da bi ustavila padec, kar pomeni, da lahko zavarujete le eno drugo osebo, ki pleza za vami. Tako dvojne vrvi v bistvu združujejo najboljše iz obeh svetov: So tako enostavne za uporabo kot enojna vrv, vendar ponujajo dodatno varnost, ki jo dobite pri uporabi dveh vrvi. Lahko jihprepoznate po simbolu neskončnosti, stranski številki 8.

  • Dvojne in trojne vrvi: Polovične vrvi in dvojne vrvi se pogosto skupaj imenujejo dvojne vrvi. Vse Mammutove dvojne vrvi so tudi certificirane za uporabo kot polovične vrvi in obratno, kar pomeni, da jih lahkouporabite za vsako vrsto tehnike varovanja. Vendar se izogibajte mešanju in ujemanju: Uporabljajte le enake vrste plezalnih vrvi glede na dolžino, premer in znamko. Mimogrede: Pri Mammutu boste našli tudi trojno certificirane plezalne vrvi, ki so še bolj vsestranske v svoji uporabi in jih je mogoče uporabiti tako kot enojne kot dvojne vrvi. Dvojne in trojne vrvi najbolje delujejo, ko se uporabljajo z varovalno napravo tuber, kot jeMammut Nordwand Alpine Belay .

Kakšno dolžino plezalne vrvi potrebujem?

Pri nakupu plezalne vrvi sta dolžina in premer ključna kriterija, saj oba določata skupno težo vaše vrvi. Teža je običajno prikazana v gramih na meter (g/m), kar omogoča lažjo primerjavo vrvi različnih dolžin. Poznavanje dolžine in teže na meter vam omogoča izračun skupne teže vrvi.

Dolžina

Prava dolžina vaše plezalne vrvi je večinoma odvisna od plezalnih poti, ki jih nameravate preplezati. Enotna vrv naj bo vsaj dvakrat daljša od skupne dolžine vaše poti. Če je vaša izbrana pot dolga 25 metrov, mora biti vaša vrv dolga vsaj 50 metrov. Očitno plezalne poti niso vedno linearne, zato je najbolje upoštevati nekaj rezerve za prečnice. Pri plezanju v zaprtih prostorih običajno ne potrebujete toliko dolžine kot v naravi, zato je vrv dolžine 40 do 50 metrov običajno dovolj. Pri osvajanju narave velja preprosto pravilo: "Nebo je meja". Skladno s tem bodo poti na splošno daljše. Pred izbiro vrvi je najbolje ugotoviti, kako dolge so najpogostejše poti v vaši okolici. Če šele začenjate z zunanjim plezanjem in se še ne počutite pripravljeni na daljše poti, je enotna vrv z dolžino 70 metrov dober začetek.

Polovične in dvojne vrvi so lahko nekoliko krajše kot enotne vrvi, ker imate dve vrvi, ki vam omogočata, da pokrijete dvakratno razdaljo pri spuščanju. Vse, kar morate storiti, je, da zavežete konca vrvi skupaj. Z dvema vrvema, dolgima po 60 metrov, lahko pokrijete tudi 120 metrov pri spuščanju – kar je še posebej uporabno pri večraztežajnem plezanju in daljših alpskih poteh.

Premer

Premer je odvisen od tega, ali uporabljate enotne, polovične ali dvojne vrvi. Za vsako vrsto vrvi obstajajo tanjše in debelejše različice, vsaka s svojimi prednostmi in slabostmi. Tanjše vrvi so na splošno veliko bolj gladke za rokovanje, in lažje – še posebej slednje lahko naredi veliko razliko, ko morate vrv nositi dalj časa. Po drugi strani so plezalne vrvi z večjim premerom bolj trpežne in robustne, kar pomeni, da so veliko bolj odporne na obrabo in nudijo veliko višjo raven zaščite pred ostrimi robovi. Začetniki so najbolje postreženi z vrvmi z večjim premerom, saj uporaba tankih vrvi za varovanje zahteva določeno stopnjo izkušenj in spretnosti.

Vedno poskrbite, da je vaša vrv združljiva z vašim varovalnim pripomočkom , saj so nekateri varovalni pripomočki narejeni samo za vrvi z določenim premerom. Če je vrv preveč tanka, zavorni mehanizem morda ne bo pravilno deloval. Če pa je vrv predebela, se lahko zatakne ali ne teče pravilno skozi napravo. Zato, ko se odpravljate na svojo veliko plezalno avanturo, poskrbite, da uporabljate vrvi in varovalne pripomočke, ki so dejansko namenjeni uporabi skupaj.


Ropes_for_indoor_outdoor_climbing_image1
Mammut climbing ropes coiled on a black gear mat with a small patch featuring a carabiner and detailed climbing equipment labels.
Close-up of a person tying a knot in an orange Mammut climbing rope while wearing a harness.

Additional climbing rope features

Climbing ropes offer many handy features that can majorly improve your climbing experience.

Waterproof climbing ropes

Waterproof ropes are essential when climbing in rainy weather conditions, ice and snow. A wet or maybe even frozen rope is heavy and won’t be able to hold you securely anymore. For a UIAA Water-repellent climbing rope  to be certified as such, it must not absorb more than 5 % of water in the space of 15 minutes, which is monitored and measured as part of the UIAA water absorption test. At Mammut, you’ll find plenty of climbing ropes with Dry finish which absorbed less than 1,5 %. As these ropes are particularly water-repellent, they are also very stain-resistant. If you’re exclusively climbing in indoor venues, safely out of reach of the elements, you don’t necessarily need a water-repellent rope. That being said, Mammut’s Dry ropes generally are a lot more hardwearing – making them an equally great choice when frequently used indoors.

Climbing ropes with middle marker

Easily identify the middle of a rope with middle markers: This allows you to quickly thread your rope before abseiling, as well as quickly measuring whether safe abseiling is possible when belaying your climbing buddy. The abrasion-resistant middle markings on our Mammut ropes are made to last – and will still be perfectly visible after many ascents and descents. If you want to give the markings a bit of a refresh after heavy use, we recommend using a permanent marker like the Edding 3000.

Climbing ropes with Sender construction

Our Sender construction for climbing ropes is a specialized technique exclusive to Mammut, which ensures maximum lightness and performance without compromising on quality and reliability. The clever use of materials combined with next-gen manufacturing techniques and smart design ensure these climbing ropes strike a perfect balance between feathery lightness, durability and ease of use. The key features are a narrow diameter which doesn’t compromise on strength, as well as premium fibers and a weaving technique which is ultra resistant to wear and tear, while at the same time requiring less materials during the manufacturing process..

Climbing ropes with Workhorse construction

If you’re going the full climbing distance all day every day, your rope should definitely be able to keep up. Sounds familiar? Then our Workhorse ropes are your best friend. These climbing ropes are the most robust type we’ve ever produced at Mammut. Because of their specially woven rope shell, they’re at a much lower risk of wear and tear – and extremely durable. They are designed for regular and frequent use, as well as  projecting and indoor climbing.

What type of rope for which climbing activity?

The type of climbing activity you’ve set your heart on will go a long way in deciding which rope you need, as they all require different equipment. All ropes from Mammut are optimized for three different types of use, meaning you’re guaranteed to find the perfect rope for your favorite sport. Here’s a breakdown of the key features to watch out for when choosing a rope for your discipline:

  • Indoor climbing: A single rope  is the perfect choice for use in indoor venues and gyms. Since you usually don’t have to carry your rope very far, the weight of the rope isn’t as much of a factor. Instead, choose a rope with a bigger diameter to boost longevity. Usually a length of 40 meters is more than enough, while waterproof features are something you can safely forego. Mammut’s PFC-free classic ropes are the perfect allrounders, ensuring the best possible performance in dry conditions.

  • Crag climbing: Single ropes or triple-certified ropes are also suitable for sports climbing and trad climbing. Your rope should be robust enough to absorb even multiple falls. Depending on your preferred route length, the length of the rope should measure between 60 and 80 meters. For longer routes and redpoint climbing you should use a thinner, more lightweight rope.

  • Alpinism: Alpine ropes are designed to match all the requirements for use in the corresponding territory, from multi-pitch climbing to alpine climbing and mountaineering. Multi-pitch climbing sessions in dizzying heights can easily take several hours – that’s why a lightweight rope is vital, but it should still be strong enough to withstand sharp edges. Thin half , twin  or triple-certified ropes are ideal, as they offer enough flexibility on winding routes. Because those tend to be very long, you should opt for ropes measuring between 50 to 60 meters. For effective protection against snow and ice, proper impregnation  is key: Our Alpine Core Protect Dry Rope  features a particular cut-resistant aramite shell, making it an absolute must-have for alpine climbing.

Standard Fall: Requirements for climbing ropes

Quite a lot rides on a good climbing rope – first and foremost, your life. Literally. To make sure your safety isn’t completely down to pure luck, climbing ropes are extensively tested and judged based on various criteria. The requirements for dynamic mountain climbing activities are defined by standard EN-892 of the European Committee for Standardization. The so-called standard fall is part of this test. During the test, one end of the rope is fixed, before different fall scenarios are simulated to see how each rope behaves under different circumstances. By the way: These test falls are usually much more extreme than the real thing. The following criteria are key for certification:

  • Number of falls: This indicates how many falls the rope is able to sustain before it breaks. The higher the number of falls, the safer the rope. For single and half ropes, the golden number is no less than 5 falls. For twin ropes, it’s a minimum of 12.

  • Impact force: Impact force is a term to describe the forces a climber is exposed to when falling. By naturally extending, the rope can absorb some of that impact. The remaining power should not exceed 12 kilo Newton for single and twin ropes, 8 kilo Newton for half ropes.

  • Extension during the first fall: A new rope extends to its final length after the first fall – after that, the length won’t change anymore, even after subsequent falls. The maximum acceptable level of extension is 40 %. Anything higher is considered a high risk.

Find out more about the ins and outs of rope assessment in our article on how climbing ropes are tested and standardized .

Jumpstart your adventure

Now that you know the key things to watch out for, you’re fully equipped to choose your perfect climbing rope. To store your rope, we recommend a rope bag . Plus, check out our handy guide to caring for your rope , including tips on how to correctly store and clean it. And of course you’ll find everything else you need to successfully master any route at Mammut. If you’re still trying to find your way around basic climbing equipment , we’ve got all the information you need: From choosing the right clothes for bouldering and climbing to our dedicated guides to climbing pants, chalk and more.


Woman in Mammut climbing gear scaling a challenging rock face with a stunning mountainous landscape in the background.